Hakan Öge
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Hakan'ın Kamerasından
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Recife

An agreeable sail towards here, yes, yes, favorable winds.

As the sun is rising to the zenith we see the skyline slowly slowly disclosing itself to us. I am sitting in the shadow of the mainsail, my feet are being caressed by the water, we're nearly there and we just left our last port... what a difference when we decide to play with the wind. I haven't had the slightest feeling of seasickness, although there's quite a swell. Could it be that I feel rotten only when we sail against nature's powers? Well well, that's definitely good news, as we are done with the sailing against, currents and winds, for the rest of the trip... Theoretically speaking that is.

The colour of the sea changes from blue to brown in a very clear and definite line. I can feel the change on my skin as well, but even though the brown water feels softer, the view of all kinds of floating things makes me pull my feet back on board. We're entering the mouth of the river, garbage is floating out as we're sailing in.

This is the dirtiest anchorage I've ever seen. We decide not to sail to the marina because it is said to be smelly, and with what we see floating in and on the water we have no doubt about this statement. So we stay in the yacht club, separated from the open sea only by a wall, the sea wind cleaning the air for us. I spent the first night dreaming about the garbage we were sleeping on, feeling disease trying to get me.

So, we're in Recife, a city were the human misery hurts all my senses. 3 year old beggars pulling at my legs, right next to an over luxurious mall. I feel aggressed by the violence with which rich and poor express their social position in the face of the ones at the other side of the economic ladder, yet, I do nothing. I avoid the look of the rich, I avoid the look of the poor. I try to protect my world, I try to ignore the dingy ride in the horrid waters, I liberate Mardek from floating islands of trash breathing trough my mouth.

So to lighten up, we go to Olinda, a town 10 km away, so pretty with colours on all walls and art behind every open window. We feed on fruit juices, that send you right in heaven the moment your lips touch the drink, that let you fly as you swallow their nectar. We watch movies when the wind is strong enough to keep the boat's batteries loaded, and overall, I must say that I feel well. Maybe I should feel guilty surrounded by this misery, but I've given up on guilt quite a while ago. I am responsible for the way I deal with my life. I must put energy in my well being, in Hakan, in Mardek and the dinghy. I see I am trying to convince myself as write this, maybe after all I do feel guilty and I am not that well... but still, I am responsible for the way I feel, for the way I deal. So, what will be my next move? To enlighten my day, I will eat salad and drink fruit, I will give love and maybe cry a little to let go of the aggression. Yes, that's what I'll do.

Recife (Brazil) / 23.06.2005

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