We have reached Peninsula Valdes,
on arrival at the entrance of this huge bay we anchored for a few hours for rest waiting for the wind to turn and then follow it to the safe anchorage a little further in. We were facing enormous very arid cliffs where on the bottom of them a colony of sea lions were burping and fighting their way trough the day. I wanted the tide to lower and then take a walk on the beach amid the lions... But then the wind started to turn and of we went. We arrived at the safe haven just in time, for the south wind started blowing like mad, we were just off the shoreline, the waves had just a few meters to build up but soon enough the water was nothing else but white spray and very short waves. I was told and reassured that on this coast the nasty winds always came from land and so had no time to build huge waves, it is the waves that makes sailing dangerous and not the wind itself. Today I feel this reassurance is not holding up to my beliefs as I surely enough saw waves don't need much space to grow and even if we sail let's say, 10 miles from the shore, waves will have grown enough to be unpleasant, at the least.
We are 6 boats here in the anchorage, all of them were with us in Mar del Plata, we all left around the same time and all arrived together, how strange, and I thought that our boat being sooo much smaller than the others would be sooo much slower... Mardek will have nothing of it, we even arrived a little before the others... During the sailing we have not seen any sailboat, letting us think that we're the only ones at sea, and then the moment we throw anchor, 5 others join in...
"Dannaa Dannaa this ist Breakpoint, to you recieff. Over."
"Jaa tis is Dannaa, ve are entring the Golffo Nuefo, therr is 3 notss of current ve will be at anchoratch in an hour or soo, over."
"Vat ist your exact positioon? over."
"S 42 55, W 64 25 over."
We giggle and imitate the people on the radio...
"Jean iveu, tu me recois?"
"Oui micheleu, je te recois 5 sur 5eu."
"T'as la meteo-eu?"
"Oui-eu, la j'me fait un ptit geuleton. tu me passera la recette-eu du gateau au chocolat?"
Asks the single handed Frenchman in the steel black boat, wanting chocolate comfort, poor lonesome seaboy, a long long way from home, locked in his vessel, like all of us. We look out at the beautiful stretch of beach in front of us but it is further away from us than if we were watching it on tv, what a beautiful walk we would take. We'll bake the chocolate cake instead, probably all of us noted the recipe and all of us will pass our day mixing chocolate with eggs and sugar, look out at the stretch of beach and wait for it all to calm down. 3 days? Or will we risk to take the tiny window that will arrive this night and race to the next anchorage 80 miles from here? Discussions fuse on the radio. What will it be? Suffer the north wind in the south protected anchor place we are in now, or risk the 80 miles and suffer the south wind at sea if we don't make it...11 people are racking their brains, weighing what discomfort they will chose for, listen to the other's thoughts and then... Make their own wise (or not) decision...
I was speaking about chocolate cake, but there is a much more horrible thing going on right here on Mardek... Hakan is fighting with the toilet, it got blocked during the crossing, we tried to fix it while sailing, extracting all the mess from the box outside, where the conducts pass, but Hakan got seasick and did not manage to finish the work. We were supposed to do that in Mar del Plata, very clear signs showed their face to us about the toilets, but somehow the idea got lost in all the other preparations... Anyway, it's been quite a few days now we are without a toilet, it's sort of ok when the weather is good and you don't have 5 neighbors staring at your bottom... But when there is and on top of that wind close to 100 km an hour, things take a whole new meaning. I will not get into details, well, not today for sure.
2 French, one Swiss, one German a Danish and one Turkish boat, all hanging on our chains, all glad to be out of the open ocean, waiting for the night to set, I stick out my head, which is very nearly pulled out of it's socket, 2 mast lamps are lit, the German boat and the Swiss one... Germanic precision... we smile at how deep tradition will put it's mark on people.
Since around 24 hours now we are here, we spent a good night because we were tired but the boat was heavily rolling purposelessly and shoving us all over our tiny bed, my neck was a little stiff from blocking my body so as to find a forced stability.
The toilets are just fixed, I'm after all not going to bake a chocolate cake but instead will go for my first pizza! My cooking has improved greatly since I live here. Hakan is welcoming everything I cook with delight and let me go further and further into culinary exploration. I am delighted at Hakan`s unexistent barriers and cook wonders, every dish an invention to some extend, every time new tastes to tinkle our tongues.
It seems there is a window that will pull us up to Punta Tombo, where penguins nest. Penguins are very funny animals, their legs are set way back on their bodies and every movement resembles pure humor, they bark like dogs and move as if their only purpose in life is to make us laugh. When they're in the water they resemble ducks, and then when they swim they do it in the same pattern flies do in the air. We haven't seen much penguins yet and so I am very exited at the prospect of anchoring among them. But we'll see, nothing is ever decided until we pull up our anchor, and then again, where we'll throw it will only be definite when we actually have thrown it again, and stopped the motor... Life on board, surely in these rough climates is nothing if not flexible, you're never allowed to fix your thoughts on anything, because chances are huge that you're not going there after all and if you do go there, will you be able to reach land? You think you'll take a walk in between the sea lions and instead, you spend your afternoon listening to Germans speaking English on the radio with Danish people, and Frenchmen exchanging recipes and meteorology.
To me this flexibility is just fine, it extends every day a little and goes very well with the way I intend to spend my life. Find the energetic current that will bring you to what you should be doing how you should and when you should be doing it. I was at it way before getting on board here, but there were big gaps and barriers between this concept and the way you must lead your life in an occidental city, in a society and all that. Though after years and years of pondering and turning it all in my head like a crazy woman it seemed the most logical and secure way to proceed. Life has so obviously whole dimensions we can't reach with our little limited and limiting minds that if we trust life (and I do) we can't really interfere with our minds. That will set everything in havoc and so, we must let life do it's job, and go with it, learn to read the signs and act upon them. I don't think that we should use our brains to understand what is going on, we should use it to read and act on all the information hanging all around us.