Hakan Öge
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Caleta Burgoyne

The Strait of Magellan, that's where we are right now.

It is wide it is foggy, it is dark. We sailed sails only for quite a few hours with the wind in our back, cradled by the waves. We're leaving Tierra del Fuego entering Chilean Patagonia. We haven't landed yet so there is nothing I can say about it, but here on board quite a few things are changing, braking would be the exact term really. We've broken 2 of our 3 buckets with the ice we've picked up by the glaciers. The only salad bowl we have and use all the time has broken as well. The handle of the pressure cooker has exploded in my hand. All plastic things seem to give over in this area, why? And why now? Maybe because we have no shops to replace them...
The humidity has continued rising, we're very nearly swimming on board, but our morale doesn't seem very affected by this, after so many days of being soaked we still seem high spirited, I say we seem, because there always is the famous ''selective vision'' which would give us wrong information for us to be able to keep on going.

I've just had a small conversation with the armada, the first person I talk to in a week, Hakan excepted of course. Hakan and I talk, quite a lot actually, we laugh as well and this total isolation seems to bring back some very uncivilized sides of ourselves. The animal in us emerging as the days pass, which is a very amusing thing really when you're one of the animals... Grunting our way up a mountain, talking to each other using our face and body. Sniffing our way back down.
There are a lot of animals in the water here, Hakan has seen whales but every time I seem to be looking the other way. There is a lady seal that has been following us for more than half an hour, jumping out of the water to inhale. We're delighted at the sight, and we keep on looking at her. Sometimes the light picks up on her black smooth skin and she then sparkles with beauty. We're very impressed by the dexterity of her, on and on jumping behind Mardek, sometimes she stops to scratch herself it seems, looks around a bit and then starts all over with a revenge to come close to us again. I didn't know I would love the seals that much. I always saw them lying about on the beach, fat and clumsy, but now... I take of my hat to this lady seal, entertaining me on the strait.
We've anchored on the Patagonian side, then on the Tierra del Fuego side, we're still on the strait. I don't know if it is the climate or the season or just the weather that has changed but it has become much warmer, and even a little less rainy as well. We go from one fabulous anchorage to another, each time surrounded by new mountains, new waterfalls new rivers plants trees. Every time new walks trough the dense forest, up the grey mountains. Even if the forest sometimes is only a little taller than a meter or two our way trough it is very difficult. Sometimes we're completely blocked in the vegetation, our only way out is to walk on top of the trees, in a very unstable balance we jump from one treetop to another. I know it is hard to believe or even to conceive but it really is like that. I've told you this place is like nowhere else...

We're in the channels again, out of the strait. Past the most delicate part of our whole voyage, theoretically that is. We're anchored in Caleta Bourgoyne so we drunk a bottle of wine. We're very lazy today, outside wind is hauling furiously and we stay in bed thinking of all the people who would like to do so but don't. I take nap for you then, and a walk in the mountains and a ride on a sailboat, a shower in a waterfall, I converse with the seals in the water and taste all the berries I find on the mountain shrubs. For you who wants me to.

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